Cosmetics

Cosmetics is a collective term for a group of products which have to do with the external physical care of people (and increasingly of animals).
They are, in fact, a counterpart to food and clothes (fashion).
Cosmetics range from the ‘classical’ hand soap to wrinkle-fighting creams.
Their compositions are frequently highly complex. For example, relatively simple modern hand soap easily contains around 15 different components (water, sodium lauryl ether sulphate, cocamidopropyl betaine, PEG-7 glyceryl cocaote, sodium chloride, laureth-3, sodium benzoate, glycol distearate, citric acid, Laureth-4, perfume, potassium sorbate, denatonium benzoate (bitrex) and colouring agents Cl 15985 and Cl 16035). This simple composition already seems complex, but the degree of purity of the raw materials and the quantitative composition is even more important in arriving at a stable, durable composition which, moreover, does what it is supposed to.
With the knowledge that there are many ranges of products and a wide variety within each range, it is evident that quality control of raw materials, semi-manufactures and products is essential. The requirements with respect to microbiological impurities and shelf life are becoming stricter and stricter.
National and international legislation are also currently being tightened:
Product safety report (source 1223/2009/EU appendix I):
The product safety report of a cosmetic product contains the following elements:

Product safety information

a. a list of the ingredients in the product;
b. a list of the (relevant) physical and chemical characteristics of the product;
c. data on the stability of the product in the physical and chemical sense;
d. data on the microbiological quality of the product, as well as a ‘preservation challenge test’;
e. statements of the quality and purity of the raw materials used in the manufacture;
f. data on the applicability, purity and properties of the packaging material of the product, particularly data on contaminated ingredients which affect or could affect the quality of the product, such as softening agents, release agents and suchlike in the case of plastics and welding and soldering agents, preservative oils and protective coatings in the case of metal packaging materials;
g. a description of the way in which the product must be used and, if required, more detailed recommendations to that end;
h. a description of the places where exposure occurs, the prescribed dosage(s), duration and frequency of exposure, the exposure route(s) and the intended target group;
i. a description of the toxicological profile of the raw materials in the product, of any impurities they may have and their possible interactions;
j. a list of any known undesirable reactions to or side effects of the product;
k. any other relevant information, for example, test data from experiments with human subjects.

Product safety assessment

1. A final (toxicological) conclusion concerning the use of the cosmetic product and user-related risks;
2. A justification of the need for the specific warnings and instructions for use on the label;
3. Further reasons for the conclusion and justification described under 1 and 2, based on the overall data collected under A. Product safety information;
4. A list of the credentials of the assessor.

2. Implementation

The extent of the (advisory) activities to be carried out for each product is closely related to the total product information the client supplies or can supply. The data under 1 A up to and including f. and k. are normally known to the manufacturer. Additional examination and study is often needed for the data under g. up to and including j.
The items referred to under 1 B must always be implemented in their entirety in the assessment of each product.
The assessments will be implemented by an experienced assessor in the field of cosmetic products, household chemicals, biocides and suchlike, who have been carrying out these activities for more than 20 years for various clients in the Netherlands and are acknowledged as competent by the supervisory governmental agency (Food and Consumer Product Safety Authority).
Besides drawing up a product safety report, account also has to be taken of the duty of notification of cosmetic products to the CPNP (Cosmetic Products Notification Portal), which went into force on 11 July 2013 for new products to be launched on the market within the EU and which must be realised for existing products as of this date under penalty of a trade prohibition.

All kinds of stability tests must be carried out as part of this report
- Time stability
- Raised temperature
- Cold test
- Light stability
- Mechanical stability
- Preservation challenge test
For many of these stability tests, an initial product investigation is necessary in order to be able to distinguish between the various properties before and after stability test at a settlement.
- INITIAL PRODUCT ANALYSIS (basic comparison)
Physical and chemical tests, each time
. Visual colour
. Fragrance
. Fragrance composition
. PH
. Viscosity
. Peroxide value
. Emulsion stability (incl. microscopic examination)
Microbiological tests
. Bacterial count
Packaging tests
. Effect of packaging on product
USEFUL LINKS:
http://www.ncv-cosmetica.nl/nl/
http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/sectors/cosmetics/files/pdf/cpnp_user_manual_nl.pdf
http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/sectors/cosmetics/index_nl.htm
https://www.cosmeticseurope.eu/
http://www.vwa.nl/onderwerpen/meest-bezocht-a-z/dossier/cosmetica
http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/sectors/cosmetics/cosing/ingredients/index_en.htm
http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2006:097:0001:0528:EN:PDF